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New chef, new menu. Same class.
[ Voir - November 2011 ]
Laloux séduit encore, à l'aube de ses 25 ans.
Laloux n’est pas un resto « branché »: pas de cuisine ouverte, de musique lounge ni de serveur tatoué. Le décor est aussi simple. Les murs blancs, rehaussés de miroirs aux cadres boisés, créent une atmosphère chaleureuse. Ce qui bouge ici? Ce sont les chefs. Depuis 2006, ils défilent en cuisine: Danny St-Pierre et Patrice Demers, Marc-André Jetté, Éric Gonzalez puis Seth Gabrielse. Ce dernier étant parti ouvrir le Foodlab à la SAT, c’est Jonathan Lapierre-Réhayem qui officie désormais en cuisine. Un jeune talent qui nous arrive de La Montée de lait, récemment fermé.
Les chefs du Laloux ont la bougeotte, mais la carte ne déroute pas pour autant les habitués. Les classiques sont encore là: assiette de charcuteries maison, tartare de boeuf, foie gras, filet de boeuf, saumon, ris de veau… Mais tout est dans l’art d’apprêter ces bons produits! Notre nouveau chef impose son style. Le tartare de boeuf, par exemple, parfaitement coupé, est étonnamment saisi (très légèrement toutefois) puis décoré d’armillaires « miel » marinés (de savoureux champignons), d’une émulsion d’ail noir (un ail fermenté) et de tranches de mimolette. Équilibré, gracieux et parfumé. Il propose aussi une nouvelle version de l’oeuf en meurette: un oeuf de cane mariné au vin rouge, accompagné d’une salade de betteraves au bacon. Le jaune coule: sa couleur vive tranche avec le légume mauve. L’effet de contraste est tout aussi beau que savoureux.
En plat, l’assiette de filet de boeuf (de la Ferme Eumatimi) est impeccable. La viande est de grande qualité, tendre et cuite comme demandé. Elle est accompagnée d’oignons en soubise, d’une échalote française confite, de pommes de terre « kipfler » (style rattes) confites et d’une sauce au genièvre douce. Note au chef: l’oignon vert rôti, sur le dessus, est filandreux et immangeable. Les tagliatelles maison sont parfaites, arrondies d’une crème fumée, de petits morceaux de chou-fleur rôtis et d’un trait d’huile de truffe – pour une fois – pas trop envahissant.
La plus belle assiette? Un magret de canard finement tranché flanqué d’un « jambonneau » de canard (une cuisse cuite façon jambon fumé, tendre et délectable) avec des spätzles à l’aneth, salsifis et crème sure à la moutarde de Meaux. Bravo.
La nouvelle pâtissière, Stéphanie Labelle (de la Pâtisserie Rhubarbe), et son assistante, Mélanie Gervais, sont des pros. À essayer absolument, cette oeuvre esthétique consacrée… à l’arachide dont la saveur est partout: dans les petits gâteaux (des dacquoises, sorte de meringue) recouverts d’une fine tranche de chocolat et même dans la crème glacée. Autre bon dessert: un parfait glacé aromatisé au chocolat Manjari, servi avec moelleux au chocolat, poire pochée et sorbet poire.
Les poissons bien traités et soigneusement sélectionnés selon les exigeants critères d’Ocean Wise, garantissant des pêches durables. Belle (et encore trop rare) initiative. Il faut aussi souligner le talent du sommelier David Vincent: ses accords mets et vins sont d’une précision redoutable.
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Fine Dining: Laloux
[ Lesley Chesterman, The Gazette, January 2011 ]
“Chef Seth Gabrielse, backed by a first-rate team, spices up this classic dining room”
Just under a year ago, I reviewed Laloux for the fifth time, which means no restaurant has received more attention in this space in the past decade. Not that I'm protesting, mind you -it's just that I wish the chefs would stay a little longer.
A regular who's who of Montreal's top cooks have passed through Laloux's elegant doors since it opened 24 years ago, starting with the man for which the restaurant was named, Philippe Laloux. Up next was Lyonnais chef Andre Besson, who introduced Montrealers to lip-smacking Nouvelle Cuisine in dishes like crab ravioli, tourte de gibier and sauteed foie gras with grapes.
Besson's cooking became so much part of the Laloux experience that it came as little surprise that the restaurant stumbled after his departure in 2006. But just when things were looking dicey, two talented chefs, Danny St-Pierre and whizkid pastry chef Patrice Demers arrived in 2007, introducing a modern-bistro menu, perhaps less suited to the elegant room, but certainly better suited to the bistronomie zeitgeist.
St-Pierre's tenure was brief, as he exited soon after to open Auguste, his restaurant in Sherbrooke. Yet before Laloux disciples could have yet another nervous breakdown, his post was filled by the talented Marc-Andre Jette. Just when things were looking interesting, Jette and Demers up and left in May 2009 to take over downtown's Newtown (in mid-October, they'll be opening a new restaurant called Les 400 Coups).
But hope springs eternal when it comes to Laloux, and Eric Gonzalez filled Jette's shoes soon after. The former chef of several of Montreal's "haute temples de gastronomie," Gonzalez seemed a savvy choice to take over this classy kitchen. My last review here ended with the words, "So now begins chapter five. Here's hoping it's a long one." Well, no such luck. Gonzalez put in less than a year before checking out last January to run Auberge le Vieux St-Gabriel.
So what now? Well, I'm thinking I'll stop focusing so much on Laloux's chefs (though there is a new one, Seth Gabrielse, and he's excellent) and turn my attentions to the team as a whole. First, there's the unflappably charming maitre d'/manager Francis Archambault and sommelier David Vincent, who always recommends the most gorgeous and appropriate wines from Laloux's magnificent cellar. Co-maitre d' Fanny Alaizeau is a top-notch server, and Michelle Marek, chef-patissiere here since 2009, is one of the city's best.
And then there's the setting itself. No contest, this is my favourite dining room in Montreal. Entering this serene space with its pale yellow walls and dark-green-framed mirrors that loom over white-linen-topped tables is always a thrill. Chefs may change at Laloux, but the decor does not, and for that I am eternally grateful.
Now back to the chef, Gabrielse, whose experience includes stints at Le Passe-Partout, Anise, Bazaar and, most recently, Le 357C. Gabrielse incorporates certain flavours that have been rare at the Laloux table, including exotic fruit and spices, bitter greens, and even black beans. His plate presentations are pretty without being fussy. Everything I tasted worked.
Ever-so-slightly smoked scallops arrived on a bed of fennel puree laced with a caper, pineapple and lemon vinaigrette. The seafood was expertly seared, and the accompaniments were both tangy and luscious. A Mason jar filled with Nordic shrimp mixed with celery and apple and topped with a swirl of tarragon foam also demonstrates Gabrielse's light touch. Jerusalem artichoke chips served alongside added a welcome crunch.
I found his heirloom tomato salad a bit small, especially the dice-sized fried nugget of goat's cheese. But the foie gras "au torchon" served with cherries and toasted croutons was ideal in size and the foie gras was perfectly silky. Yum!
Main courses were even better, and, unlike the delicate starters, were rather bold in style. A slab of seared halibut was set on a bed of black beans over a puddle of coriander salsa verde. Breaking into moist chunks, the burly fish held its own next to the beans, and the green-olive-salad topping gave each bite a salty edge.
The three other dishes sampled were all meaty and fabulous. Calf's liver is a favourite of mine, and Gabrielse's now tops my list because instead of frying it, he grills it, which boosts the flavour enough to match the strong tastes of the accompanying rapini, onion rings and balsamic-infused cipollini onions.
I'd also highly recommend the beef strip loin for the full-flavoured meat, but also for the light white polenta on which it is served with sweet roasted tomatoes and a green-bean salad. But perhaps my favourite dish here is the duck magret. Paired with fork-mashed potatoes, seasoned with Berber spices and garnished with caldo verde, the crimson slices of tender duck meat were served with pan juices flavoured with long pepper. Duck is ubiquitous on Montreal menus and this one scored for being perfectly cooked, but more so for bringing a new set of tastes to the table.
For dessert, we began with the chocolate pot de creme, a scrumptious dessert left over from the Demers days. Up next were three of Marek's plates, starting with "apples three ways," a fun mix of textures with jellies, granites and croutons, as well as funky flavour accents like caraway and thyme, the whole topped with a quenelle of dulce de leche ice cream. Then came a small rectangle of olive oil cake set atop a smear of white chocolate and rosemary cream and paired with rhubarb, grapefruit and grapefruit sorbet. Lovely! And, finally, we slurped up a divine strawberry fruit salad served in a verrine topped with camomile foam, and a spoonful of herb granite and strawberry sorbet.
These pretty desserts, so stylish and delicious, seemed to epitomize the whole new Laloux experience. After 24 years, there's a lot of history between these walls. Having experienced most of the changes here, I still sense Besson's sophistication, St-Pierre's upscale casual approach, Demers's sense of fun, Jette's light touch and just a tad of Gonzalez's flamboyance. Now with Gabrielse, I'm enjoying this new sense of adventure. And so Laloux carries on ... marvellously.
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||“ Dining Out: Laloux's next chapter ”
[ Lesley Chesterman, The Gazette - August 7th, 2009 ]
Over my past decade following the Montreal
restaurant scene, it has been a real treat
reviewing Laloux. Starting with my first writeup
in July 2000, I have covered half of the life
of this 20-year institution. And, boy, has
it ever been interesting.
Chapter One began with the first chef, Philippe
Laloux, for whom the restaurant was named.
Now a successful caterer, Laloux left soon
after the restaurant’s opening. Chapter
Two started with the arrival of chef André
Besson, whose French nouvelle cuisine was
highlighted by game meats, exquisite sauces
and elegant desserts.
When Besson left in 2006, the restaurant stumbled.
But Laloux rose from the ashes again in 2007,
and Chapter Three got off to a rollicking
start with two talented chefs, Danny St-Pierre
and pastry chef Patrice Demers, who introduced
a cheaper menu along with a fresh, modern
Sadly, Chapter Three turned out to be short
as St-Pierre soon exited to open his Sherbrooke
restaurant, Auguste. And thus Chapter Four
began when his post was filled by twentysomething
chef Marc-André Jetté. Yet no
sooner had these boys settled into their new
roles when – pouf! – last May
they departed Pine Ave. for Crescent St. to
rejuvenate the kitchen at downtown’s
So now a new page has turned at this swish
bistro, and the next chapter looks to be promising
thanks to the arrival of acclaimed chef Eric
Gonzalez. The former chef of Montreal “haute
temples de gastronomie” like Le Lutétia,
Cube, XO, and, most recently, Café
Ferreira, Gonzalez seems a savvy choice to
take over this classy kitchen.
There has been a revolving door of chefs at
Laloux, but the restaurant itself hasn’t
budged. Setting foot in the beautiful dining
room on a sunny Tuesday, I’m comforted
to see the “bistro luxe” decor
hasn’t changed one iota.
The bright yellow walls and dark-green-framed
mirrors loom over white-linen-covered tables.
Lean back on the black bistro chairs and you’ll
still spot towering flower arrangements. The
sophisticated French setting’s over-all
effect is chic yet soothing. This is my favourite
dining room in Montreal. I’m thrilled
to be back.
So what to expect from Gonzalez? Having worked
for such French luminaries as Bernard Loiseau
and Jacques Chibois, Gonzalez has a very French
and very intricate (verging on the fussy)
style. So elaborate were his plate presentations
at Cube and XO that I often enjoyed the food
more with my eyes than my tastebuds.
Despite the influence of molecular techniques,
today’s haute cuisine is quite simple,
which made some of Gonzalez’s fare look
– dare I say it – dated. My fear
at Laloux was that Gonzalez would go “haute,”
yet I was pleasantly surprised to see he has
maintained the high-end, low-cost bistro fare
started by St-Pierre two summers ago. So now
we have Gonzalez in fancy bistro mode, and,
for the most part, I like what I see.
When you dine at Laloux, you must begin with
the charcuterie plate. Served with pickled
vegetables and half a baguette, the platter
includes a cube of head cheese, a slice of
terrine and a quenelle of mousse de foie de
volaille. Heaven! All of it – especially
the chunky and salty head cheese. Now, if
the waiter asks you if you’d like a
sip of Beaujolais to go with that, don’t
refuse. The classic combo is wonderful. I
relished every sip and bite.
The appetizers that followed were the most
beautiful plates of the evening. I adored
the Mason jar filled with rabbit confit and
caramelized onions. Served with toasted baguette
topped with tapenade and oven-roasted tomatoes,
every morsel melted in the mouth. Yum!
But a starter featuring scallop, and another
with shrimp, left me somewhat perplexed. Though
the single fat scallop was perfectly cooked,
it was served with a curry sauce, coconut
tapioca and a pineapple foam that I found
overly sweet for a savoury course. Same goes
for the shrimp dish. The shrimp themselves
were resilient and lovely, but the three puddles
of passionfruit foam balanced on top not only
overwhelmed the seafood but also added a dessert-like
Happily, the rest of the meal was brilliant
– especially the main courses. Served
on a bed of eggplant caviar and spinach, a
fat filet of Tasmanian trout was further enhanced
with a sauce vierge (olive oil, lemon juice,
tomatoes and basil) and a scattering of rock
shrimp. The fish was crisp-skinned, moist
and succulent, and the sauce was summery and
lush. And all that for a reasonable $24. Wow.
Across the table, my friend scarfed back another
spectacular plate consisting of braised beef
cheeks topped with crab and set on mounds
of lightly puréed cauliflower. I loved
the “terre et mer” theme, the
contrast between the toothsome beef and delicate
crab, the plethora of textures, and the luxury
added by the rich, mahogany sauce. Killer.
Just as delicious was the square of fried
sweetbreads. Presented simply on a bed of
carrot coins next to pea purée with
a dribble of tarragon sauce, the sweetbreads
were crisp, tender and without a hint of bitterness.
Perfect. If you think you don’t like
sweetbreads, this is the dish to get you started.
Laloux’s desserts hit a high under Demers,
and that high continues under pastry chef
Michelle Marek, who used to work as Demers’s
assistant. Marek has kept Demers’s signature
chocolate pot de crème on the menu,
but the rest of the sweets are all hers, and
are they ever good.
I like that her style is more simple than
her predecessor’s, and her buttermilk
pannacotta with poached rhubarb and ginger
scones is a testament to the fact that less
is more. Her white chocolate cake with raspberries,
pistachios and spiced frozen yogourt was so
good that I could only steal one bite from
my friend before he inhaled the rest.
Wine service has always been one of Laloux’s
fortes, and assistant sommelier Theo Diamantis
did not disappoint. He kept the wine talk
interesting and never came in a second late
with one of his fascinating offerings. Great.
With solicitous service to add to the mix,
I’d say Laloux is on a winning track
with this new team.
So now begins Chapter Five. Here’s hoping
it’s a long one.
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|“ FOOD & WINE GO LIST 2008 ”
[ FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE - May 2008 ]
“Figuring out which restaurants to hit – and which to skip – is a top priority for food-obsessed travelers. F&W has eliminated the guesswork, choosing 293 outstanding places to eat in 40 cities around the world, from a pizza-and-jazz hangout in Sidney to a superstar Chinese chef’s glorious new restaurant in Beijing.
LALOUX [Montreal, Canada]
A Montreal mainstay for two decades, this bistro feels new thanks to the recent arrival of talented chef Marc-André Jetté and pastry chef Patrice Demers. Their menu of updated French classics – and a well chosen […] wine list – keeps the room packed until 1 a.m. on weekends (late for Montreal).
POP!, Laloux’s sibling wine bar next door, serves excellent savory tarts.
Desserts like sablé Breton with apple Tatin purée and aged-cheddar ice cream.”
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|“ High Lights Festival diary ”
[ Lesley Chesterman, The Gazette - March 02, 2007 ]
Feb. 21: Marc Thuet at Laloux
“Marc Thuet, an Alsatian native who calls Toronto home since 1987, presided over the kitchens at Laloux last night in collaboration with chef Marc-André Jetté on this, the first night of the Montreal High Lights Festival.
As one of Toronto's star chefs who made his name at Centro, cemented his reputation at The Fifth, and is now the chef/owner of King Street's Thuet Bistro and Bakery, Thuet knows how to wow a crowd. And that's just what he did with a six-course tasting menu chockfull of Quebec ingredients, Asian accents, bold flavours, and gorgeous plate presentations.
Starting the meal off with a bang was an arctic char tartare paired with marinated foie gras and quail's egg zuzzed up with ponzu and black truffle. From the first bite, this dish offered a panoply of tastes, textures and colours. A luxuriously, foamy lobster bisque followed, with Thuet straying off into the exotic by incorporating flavour enhancers like Thai guava, papaya, and coconut foam into this French classic.
His subtle fusion style carried on with the fish course: wild stripped bass strapped to a nugget of braised veal cheek topped with ravioli filled with sweet jackfruit. A few streaks of sea urchin emulsion added yet another dimension to the dish.
The next plate, delivered by Thuet's beautiful wife Biana Zorich, featured a red deer filet coated with a spicy/sweet almond crumble. The deer was fabulous, but what impressed most was a port and bitter chocolate sauce and sparks of sweet cloudberry jelly and dog rose coulis.
Laloux pastry chef Patrice Demers capped off the meal with an innovative dessert starring a candy-cap mushroom flavoured panna cotta. With a taste best described as smoky maple meets forest fungus, this silky cream was paired with slices of pineapple sprinkled with truffle, honey and sage gelée, and lychee and rose meringue. Wow.
A quick word with a happy looking Thuet post meal uncovered his love of Quebec products, his deep admiration for the young and talented Laloux brigade, and his enthusiasm for the Festival. "I love it here," he said. "I feel at home."”
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|“ Cuisinier et pâtissier en tandem ”
[ Françoise Kayler - September 22nd, 2007 ]
“Laloux leans more towards the upscale bistro than it does towards the
neighbourhood kind. The décor has kept all of its charm. As for the
food, it's at once beautiful and delicious, made from simple, honest
products, transformed by the talent and intelligence of the people in
the kitchen, at prices that don't give one indigestion.”
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|“Laloux Rides Again ”
[ Lesley Chesterman, The Gazette - May 27th, 2007 ]
“It was the epitome of fine French dining for years, but after a rough patch and yet another change of chefs, the Pine Ave. restaurant has set upon a budget-friendly, less-excessive course. [read more …]
Relief! Yes, relief is what I felt last week when I dined at Laloux. Then came happiness and, finally, newfound excitement.
It was no secret that this, one of Montreal’s
most beloved restaurants, had been in
turmoil since the departure last fall of its
long-standing chef, André Besson. Though
Besson’s elegant cuisine had evolved little
over the years, when dishes like his tourte
de gibier, and foie de veau a la vinaigre
de framboise were on, a meal at Laloux
seemed the epitome of fine French dining.
Yet when Besson left and various chefs
were brought in to rethink the concept,
scathing reviews followed. After a disappointing
experience in February, I exited
with spirits low. But just as I was about to
write up my dismal dinner, word came that
the dynamic chef duo of Danny St-Pierre
(formerly of Derriere les Fagots) and Patrice
Demers (a former partner and pastry
chef of Les Chevres) were coming on board.
Excellent news, I thought, but was this
team of twentysomethings the right choice
to rejuvenate this 18-year-old institution?
Oh yes, though Laloux in its most recent
incarnation feels quite different than
the restaurant I once knew. Not only is it
less expensive, it’s less formal. The crowd
is more casually dressed, more rambunctious,
and the food is French bistro as opposed
to French formal. I never thought
I’d say this, but Laloux 2007 is verging on
St-Pierre and Demers have decided to
take a sort of a “groundbreaking” breather
this time around. Following the recent
trend towards the casualization of fine
dining, their focus is on reworked bistro
classics such as coq au vin, braised lamb
shoulder, hot foie gras and pot de creme.
Yet because these two chefs are so smart
and experienced, reworked in this case
means dishes honed to an haute-cuisine
Take, for example, the classic beet and
goat’s cheese salad. At Laloux, it’s just
that - two ingredients with a few walnuts
thrown in for good measure. But the presentation
is so lovely and the tastes and
textures are so utterly perfect that even a
restaurant critic in search of even the tiniest
faux pas could find no wrong.
St-Pierre’s plate presentations impress
without excess, a talent well demonstrated
by his delicious blood pudding “tart.” Made
up of a rectangle of hot apple jelly (thickened
with agar agar, no doubt so that heat
would not liquefy the layer) topped with a
half dozen slices of velvety sausage and a
sliver of puff pastry, it’s a dish that well
demonstrates the new Laloux approach.
I also admired an appetizer consisting
of succulent slices of smoked duck breast
paired with a generous round of foie gras
“au torchon” and a salad of carrots and
clementines. Best of all, it’s sold for a
more-than-reasonable $10, whereas that
same dish would cost well over $20 at any
other high-end restaurant - and probably
wouldn’t be as skillfully prepared.
Laloux’s new pricing policy merits a paragraph
alone. With starters averaging $8
and most mains under $25, the newfound
affordability of a dinner at Laloux is as
welcome as the rise of the Canadian dollar.
(I applaud the restaurant for opening up
the gourmet gates to budget-conscious dinners,
but having been led down that path
by other restaurants before, I’ll eat my hat
a year from now if this pricing policy is
But back to the food, or more specifically
the silky marinated salmon served
with a refreshing celery-root “terrine” and
enough dill and creme fraiche to keep a
Ukrainian grandmother smiling (I know
because I have one). With this dish it really
struck me how talented St-Pierre is
at making such simple combinations sing.
When everything is in sync, who could ask
for anything more?
Yet with nothing like reduced sauces or
excess garnish to detract from the main
event, the false notes strike that much
louder. Case in point: a main course dish
of black cod wrapped in prosciutto served
with lentils and a concasse of tomatoes.
Though priced at only $19 and cooked just
so, the fish tasted excessively fishy. After
one “off” bite, I passed on a second, and
pitied my poor dining companion who had
to finish it.
I was also less than enthusiastic about
my dish: veal loin with sweetbreads.
Served with a barley risotto infused with
just that-much-too-much lemon zest, the
fat rectangle of veal loin was surprisingly
tough. After sawing my way through each
slice, I took solace in the two rounds of
sweetbreads that provided a melting contrast
to that unyielding hunk of meat.
The third main course - an unctuous halibut
filet served with delicate lobster gnocchi
and a tender piece of lobster claw meat
- was a knockout. Add a swirl of rich tarragon
and lobster sauce strewn with asparagus
spears, and this, my friends, is sure to
become Laloux’s new must-have dish.
Cheese has always been a must at Laloux
and that’s still the case. Laloux was the
first Montreal restaurant where I enjoyed
a cheese course, and the tradition continues
with diners choosing from a half dozen
local and imported cheeses.
Yet so high was our anticipation for dessert
that we barely touched the cheese. Patrice
Demers is one of the top pastry chefs
in Montreal, where excellent pastry chefs
are as rare as excellent pastry shops.
Having devoured several of his fabulous
sweets at Les Chevres, I expected fireworks.
Sadly, nothing wowed. His lemon
crepes, layered with ribbons of pineapple,
were nice enough, yet a slice of hazelnut
cake paired with a mascarpone cream
and rehydrated dried apricots infused
with tea, was dull. A glass of goat’s cheese
cream layered with graham-wafer crumble
was topped with a rhubarb sorbet that
didn’t taste much like rhubarb. And I had
to question why he would pair an acidic
sorbet with an acidic cheese? Considering
the low price on these desserts ($7 each)
I might be coming down a bit hard, but I
think St-Pierre’s savoury offerings played
the inexpensive card less noticeably than
Demers’s desserts. Next time I’ll opt for
the dessert and wine-pairing option, which
makes sense considering Laloux’s wine list
has long been one of the best in the city.
Service remains another of this restaurant’s
strengths. Neither formal nor too
forward, our waitress did everything right
and the in-house sommelier helped us
choose a wonderful white Cotes du Rhone
for our various meat and fish dishes. As
our meal for three came in at less than
$250 (before tax and tip), I’d say I’ll be seeing
those two sooner rather than later as I
plan to return to Laloux for lunch or dinner
If I had to choose the thing I enjoyed
most about the restaurant, it’s the newfound
sense of fun. Every seat was taken,
everyone looked happy, and on the
Thursday night of my dinner, a jazz trio
began to play at Pop! (the next-door wine
bar), where several of Laloux’s customers
headed post -digestif. I’m told that plans
are also underway for Demers to revamp
Pop!’s menu to include a dessert menu for
night owls and foodies in search of a last
bite before bed- time.
So it looks like happy days are at Laloux
again. And this time, for a song.”
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||Easy on the surrounding streets
||Starters, $5-$15 ($2-$10 lunch);
Main courses, $17-$28
|“New Chefs at Laloux”
[ Andrée Harvey, Journal Voir - May 3rd, 2007 ]
“After having endured a few false starts in the kitchen, Laloux is now enjoying some smooth sailing under the helmsmanship of two gastronomical stars. Diners on your mark, grab your forks - Enjoy! […]”
“The balanced menu will equally satisfy the carnivores and the fish lovers. The former group can choose from blood sausage, grain-fed veal, filet mignon or lamb shoulder, while the latter may turn towards black cod, striped bass, salmon, or a thick slab of tuna. […] Textures, colours and tastes are in harmonious contrast with one another. To wet one’s whetted appetite, a lovely wine list, that offers as many varieties as there are varietals in France. Not to be missed: the impressive number of private imports, available by the glass or the bottle. […]”
“One could say that the sweets at Laloux are nirvanic! The desserts are a delight to behold and to taste. […]”
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|“Four Hands Make Light Work at Laloux Restaurant”
[ Rollande Desbois, Interdelegations - April 19th, 2007 ]
“A fresh breath is blowing through the kitchens of Laloux Restaurant and a new clientele is lining up at the door to appreciate the talents of two young chefs, Danny St. Pierre and Patrice Demers, one in the main kitchen and the other in the pastry kitchen. Danny St. Pierre, formerly of Derrière les Fagots in St. Rose, is a Chef noted for his creativity, versatility and his love for locally grown and raised products which he transforms according to his whimsy. As he did at the now defunct restaurants Les Chèvres and Le Chou, Patrice Demers, Pastry Chef, perpetuates his propensity for unheard of combinations in his desserts: contrasting textures and flavours that never clash. This competent duo can only get better in the months ahead, much to the pleasure of their customers. The ardour of these two young talents gives a new spirit to Laloux restaurant.”
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|“The Rebirth of Laloux”
[ Robert Beauchemin, La Presse - February 24th, 2007 ]
“Two of our most brilliant young chefs of recent years have taken over the kitchens of this flagship Montreal restaurant: Danny St. Pierre (ex-Derrière les Fagots) and Patrice Demers (ex-Les Chèvres).”
“The cuisine has been refocused with care around impeccable produce treated with a masterful touch by these two chefs from a new generation who have much in common: a pursuit of harmony and a flair for flavours and textures.[…] This cuisine is almost dogmatic in its desire to explore the entire range, from playing with the classics to deconstructing and rewriting, with a very sharp pen indeed, French cuisine […]”
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